The fashion powerhouse returns to Paris this week, with Saint Laurent rejoining the roster and menswear on a roll, despite economic challenges.
The changing world of menswear can be seen on red carpets around the world, where celebrities such as Timothee Chalamet and Harry Styles have helped reinterpret male style by abandoning monochrome tuxedos in favor of defying outfits and bright colors.
At the Golden Globes, Vogue proclaimed that “the night belonged to menswear,” and shops have already been reporting unexpected growth in the industry for months.
So the hype around the menswear shows starting in Paris on Tuesday is echoing, helped boosted by the return of two heavyweights in Saint Laurent on Tuesday’s opening night, and John Galliano’s Maison Margiela ending the week coming Sunday.
Saint Laurent has not held an official men’s show since Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello took over in 2016, instead opting for one appearance in exotic locations such as Marrakesh and Venice.
Conversation about succession
Last week in Milan, where fashion shows had not yet concluded as the industry convoy descended on Paris, the talk was all about who would succeed flamboyant creative director Alessandro Michele at Gucci following his unexpected exit.
In Paris, the big unanswered question is who will lead Louis Vuitton after Virgil Abloh’s untimely death in November 2021.
When the label made the announcement that Thursday’s show would be managed by wunderkind Colm Dillane, the man behind hot young Brooklyn label KidSuper – as well as an accompanying film shot by French director Michel Gondry – fashionistas’ jaws dropped.
Whereas many people are concerned about the effects of potential downturns, tightening environmental rules, and rising prices, menswear is seen as a bright spot.
“Saint Laurent, Gucci and Givenchy are working almost better in men’s than women’s at the moment,” said Alice Feillard, director of buying for Paris department store Galeries Lafayette.
“We’ve been seeing this exponential growth for two or three years… It’s really taking off,” she added.
‘New medium of expression’
Men’s undies are making inroads into the female market.
According to figures from the Salon International de la Lingerie, which is being held in Paris this month, male underwear increased by 3.3 percent in the first ten months of 2022 to 400 million euros ($435 million), while women’s lingerie increased by 2.5 percent (to a still dominant 1.5 million euros).
“Menswear has greatly evolved in recent years,” said luxury expert Serge Carreira of Sciences Po university.
“It has created a major new field of expression, innovation and research for the houses.”
Following the arrival in 2020 of US designer Matthew Williams, known for his luxury streetwear, Givenchy notably neglected haute couture in favor of menswear.
They hold their catwalk show on Wednesday, while key rival Dior does so on Friday.
Grace Wales Bonner, who hosts her own show on Tuesday, is one name that frequently comes up as a possible successor at Louis Vuitton.
Along with fellow Brit Bianca Saunders, she is part of a growing trend of female designers who specialize in dressing men.
Also, there is anticipation for the comeback of award-winning US designer Emily Bode, recognized for her use of recycled materials, who avoided Paris during the pandemic.
